My Kind of Town: Manly, Australia

Why Manly?

I went to Australia to take on the locals at sport – and considering what was at stake, the name seemed appropriate.  Manly also has an incredible sporting heritage, including 100 local Olympians.

What do you miss when you're away?

The beach, the light, the waves.  Other towns around the world have tennis and lawn bowls and golf, but nowhere else has Manly beach.  The varying breaks mean there’s surf for all standards, and on the beach itself the Manly Surf School gets even the pastiest inlander started and standing.

What's the first thing you do when you return?

Jog along the ocean-front promenade, from Queenscliff Surf Life Saving Club at one end of the town to Shelly Beach at the other.  That’s an easy couple of kilometres to spend watching the waves crash in, stretch jet-lagged legs and check out tomorrow’s weather as it settles in the far distance over the ocean.  Brilliant.

Where's the best place to stay?

Rent a unit (a flat), and stay for as long as you can afford.  Relaxed service and good deals can be had, especially in the Northern Hemisphere summer, from Manly Holidays (www.manlyholidayapartments.com). Otherwise, and slightly upmarket from the backpackers’ hostels, there’s the Periwinkle Manly Cove Guesthouse (periwinkle.manly@bigpond.au), friendly and central with great rooms and balconies dating back to the Federation era.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

The Steyne Hotel on the ocean corner of the Corso.  It looks like a turreted castle with Art Deco brickwork, and has a roof-bar and a ground-floor sports bar, and nine other bars in between, so something for everyone.  A local institution, opened in 1860 but rebuilt in 1935 (hence the Art Deco), it is unmistakeably Australian, a rambling emporium for drinking with a reputation for late night fighting.  Don’t let that put you off.

 Where do you go for lunch?

Manly Fish Market and Café (Wentworth Street 9976 3777).  Clean, cheap, friendly.  Fresh fish cooked simply, with chips and salad and cold white wine.  You can’t lunch better than this.

And for dinner?
I’d be tempted to go back to Manly Fish for seconds, but there are many interesting evening-type restaurants with more sophisticated menus and higher prices (sometimes much higher).  For a special occasion, try Le Kiosk at Shelly Beach (www.lekiosk.com.au).  At any other time, if you stay too long in the Steyne Hotel and miss dinner, pies and kebabs are always available on the Corso.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

There are several walks plotted by the energetic Manly Council, and maps of these are available at the Visitor Information Centre by the ferry terminal.  Choose between the various Heritage walks in town, or longer and more bracing options like a trek to North Head for great views of Sydney harbour (and sometimes whales).  If you have half a day to spare, the Manly to Spitbridge Scenic Walkway is wonderful and occasionally wild.  You can get a bus back to Manly for the return trip.

What would you tell them to avoid?

I had my second worse meal ever, anywhere in the world, in one of the beach-front restaurants at South Steyne (Venice will never be beaten for appalling restaurants).  Beware also of the main pedestrian shopping street, the Corso, which links the harbour side of town to the ocean side.  It tries to slow the visitor down on arrival, but is hardly worth the trouble.

 Public Transport or Taxi?

There are bus routes for interesting trips further up the Northern Beaches as far as Avalon.  The bus drivers, who look like retired rock stars, will always let you know when you’ve reached your stop.  They’re good like that, which makes up for the sometimes sporadic service.

 
Handbag or Moneybelt?

A handbag in Manly?  Not a problem.  There’s a thriving cultural and arts scene – it’s a tolerant place and you can carry what you want.  If you prefer to wear your money, that’s fine too.  You’re unlikely to be mugged.

What should I take home?

A hat with corks on and a T-shirt saying Manly Beach.  It’s what people expect.  Otherwise, Manly has nothing geo-specific, though there are some interesting craftspeople who work modern jewellery in glass and opal – their work can usually be found at the weekend crafts market on Sydney Road.

And if I've time for only one shop?

If you have that little time, don’t waste it on shopping.  Go and look at the Pacific.  Dream.